Surfing Stories

I started surfing as a lark. I lived by the beach in Santa Monica and had learned to body surf at Sorrento (Neenies - Famous Weenies) and State Beach.

I had just graduated from Samohi and was going to Santa Monica City College (1956).

I borrowed a home made board from a girl friend's father who was a fireman. The board was a small balsa with a skeg that looked like a boomerang.

It was late afternoon when my friend and I arrived at Malibu. No one was in the water and the waves were tiny little lines breaking at the point.

I got the board out of the car and as I passed a car parked at the curb with it's doors open on the beach side, a voice came out of the darkness, "You can do it, boy".

I glanced in the direction of the voice and saw this big guy lounging in the back seat of this huge sedan. I was so self-conscious I just smiled and lowered my head and continued down the path to the beach. I found out later that the voice belonged to Tube Steak "King of Malibu".

I rubbed some paraffin on the deck of the board and walked into the water with it. I floated the board then tried to lay down on it. Oops!

I laughed at myself and how silly I must have looked. I kept trying until I got my sense of balance and started paddling out toward the waves. I don't remember if I caught any waves that first day but I did "pearl" a lot and lost the board on the rocks and learned how hard it is to walk on slippery barnacle covered rocks at low tide.

I kept at it but the borrowed board was really too small for me. I bought a used Velzy-Jacobs "Pig" and finally learned what it felt like to catch a wave and stand up.

It was so much fun and better than body surfing so I went surfing every chance I got.

At first I went for the fun of it but got hooked on the whole scene and started hanging out at Malibu where I met a bunch of great (and crazy) guys and girls.

I remember those rare summer days when it got 6 - 8 ft., glassy and perfect shape.

The only problem with those days was that the word spread quickly and anyone with a board showed up at the beach. It got crowded and lots of people didn't know how to surf very well.

I was a regular at Malibu and when these kooks started taking off in front of me and didn't know how to turn they'd screw up every wave they tried to ride. Everyone got mad at these guys but they were so stupid they didn't care. They just kept getting in the way.

I vowed I'd never become one of those old farts that got in the way of other better surfers.

I surfed for 17 years and at 35 owned two 10 ft. boards. I lived in the Santa Monica Canyon and took my board down to State Beach one afternoon to ride a few small waves. While I was out, a kid paddled out nearby. I liked to knee paddle and was paddling to catch a little wave. The kid catches the same wave and rides toward me, cuts back and comes toward me again, all before I even stand up. By the time I get to my feet he's pulled out. He's riding a short board which has become the style. I stand up for a minute on my 10 ft. board then just fall over on my side into the shallow water and something clicks inside.

I prided myself for sticking with longboards when the trend shifted to little darts. I stuck to a slow smooth style and knee paddling.

I found myself mumbling things to younger more agile surfers like, "ya, I'd like to see what you're doing when you're 35".

I realized I was bitter about my own aging and how much surfing had changed over the years. It wasn't fun anymore. It got crowded. There were fights and too many people with bad attitudes.

I walked home and put my board away. One day I was out front when two young boys walked by. I said, "hey, you guys want some surfboards?" They looked at each other like "duh" and said, "Sure".

I must add that surfing for all those years was one of the best times I've ever had. My connection with the ocean has never left and riding waves was always fun.

Several years ago I was invited to attend the City of San Clemente - Tribute to It's Legends. Who were the legends? I don't remember. They herd everyone into this enormous dining hall and sit you down for a creamed teriyaki dinner. There were about 300 people in this auditorium watching legends eat and drink.

I'm sitting at a giant U shaped table with Craig Stecyk, Corky Carrol, and Dewey's wife Carol. Stecyk just started with Surfer's Journal and I'm looking past him toward the head of the massive U shaped table where the true icons of surfing, i.e., Velzy, Grannis, Yater, Woody Ecstrom, and Whitey Harrison, are trying to find their seats.

As they scramble for their tight quartered metal chairs they knock to the ground the three framed photographs of George Freeth, Duke Paoa Kahanamoku (1880-1968), and Johnny Weissmuller. Also going down with the photos were planters of Bird of Paradises and traditional Hawaiian tea vines.

I look at the frantic scene and mention to Stecyk that, "People over 50 that surf look silly."

The "Greek" calls me and he is livid, "What right do you have saying that, you never go into the water?"

Last August in La Jolla, Morey's wife tells Phyllis that Tom is pissed at me because I said that.

I told you a few years ago to get out of the water and be a legend and you did. Good for you.

Thanx ole buddy. I knew someday I would make it. My phone is ringin off the hook for autographs of the guy who is squatting on a one foot wave. However, I am rubbin shoulders with some heaviness on the Billabong Page. Hugh Jr.'s great buddy, Keone Watson, is the Bong Rep in Hawaii and we get a lot of stuff from him. Blonde Haired blue eyed Haole born and raised in Waianae. He is both tough and quick, and rides some big stuff. Ryan came up looking for a larger boat and we shot down to Cabo last week for some sun and surf, and of course, some mujeres y cervezas. I think I am not long for Newport as I hate leaving Baja Sur. Ryan has his own 34' Sport fisher in Kona and is getting heavier into the charter business. We may jump to Baja as well...something I think I could work into with ease. Small swell from the south down there but it was like 10+ double over head on the Pacific side. Water was cold too! 70 degrees. Not bad for Santa Barbara, but cold for us Tropicalero's. Mas adelante. Stay warm and hope your doing OK. Still waiting for a Buzzy report. Will advise. Hugh

I was going through the San Francisco airport this past week and thought I'd comment on the presentation at the United Airlines section. They had a great set of surfboards from the west coast and Hawaii. They had Velzey and Jacobs, which is one of the boards I used when I was surfing. They had a board produced by Greg Noll, called 'da cat'. It had a logo for Mickey Dora, and it was touted as a good hot board by a good hot surfer. They also had some movies of Mike Doyle and Kemp Aaberg. Those were the good old days, as I recall them. I've been out of surfing for so long I don't think I could do it anymore. Further, I gather there's a lot of hostility toward folks my age in surfing.

The site you built is terrific. You've really done a great job with it. I emailed Terry the other day and he was very cordial. I enjoyed talking with him. I was wondering about that party you mentioned at Trancas. I recall from the days of High school when we would go there and drink very heavily at Trancas and Point Dume.

Good comments on the material you wrote. I didn't realize Dora was such an intellectual radical as he was portrayed in the passage on him. In fact I recall he had worked on some of the movies that were created around Gidget. I do recall also that he was a wine salesman. I last saw him at UCLA where he was promoting some sort of ethnic hostility program as I recall. I understand he's moved to South Africa, but I'm not sure of that. At any rate, he was an interesting person who apparently had some clear views on matters as noted in the passage about him above. I didn't realize at the time that he was as analytical as what the passages suggest.

I remember clearly times when the surf at State Beach was so hot that the body surfing was some of the best you could get anywhere. I also recall bailing out at Rincon in surf that seemed over ten feet. I gave up at that point and went off to finish my college education. I do regret that I didn't continue surfing but the Peace Corps in Ethiopia, Africa and graduate degrees intervened to such an extent that I'm too old now. The last time I used a surf board was in Hawaii in Maui. I could catch the waves. My conclusion about surfing is that it's not like riding a bicycle (which stays with you all of your life). It's a sport that seems to require continuous work and involvement to keep the skills in place. I recall body surfing in Hawaii and I had little difficulty in Kauai at (can't recall the name, but it is no longer there since the hurricane wiped out the locale). It was terrific body surfing there. I had a great time. There is something about the ability to integrate one's self with nature in the form of a wave and become a temporary fish. The feelings that go through the body when you are sliding down a wave as a body surfer are fantastic. I have never been frightened in big surf as a body surfer, I guess because the waves always seem to be friendlier (?). I do know that you can more easily protect yourself when body surfing by swimming effectively and going under to use the water to protect yourself.

Great opportunity to talk here. I really do enjoy the contact with this stuff. I surfed from 1955 through the summer of 1960. It was a great time and I learned a lot about life then too. jon ebeling

ATOMIC: You're killing me with these pics'. They were obviously buried at the Smithsonian all these years. The motorcycle shot is priceless with Powell, Nichols, me and Gary Jones of all people whose 60' VW I bought. I was wearing my prized M. Nii surfing shorts hand carried back from Makaha by Billy Al Bengsten.

M. Nii and Ms. M. Nii made surf shorts at their home on Makaha Valley Rd. and both had opposite legs amputated. So...between the two of them they had had two legs...a left and a right. They like many other classico's are gone.

The next classic is Peter Cole, Tom Howard, Kemp Aaberg, Jim Sproat, and Jon Ebeling who someone aptly named Jughead. Unbelieveable photos. I recall that Tom Howard hit a tree going about 40 mph when he was racing for the US Army Ski Team. They reassembled him unlike our latest two losses, Sonny Bono and Robert Kennedy Jr. Christmas'd in Hawaii with my two sons. Clean warm waves with no crowds on the south shore at Diamond Head away from the maddening herd on the North Shore. The $50,000 still goes begging for the largest wave ridden...for paddle in's and not tow in's. Freddie Hemmings just published a good book called 'The Soul of Surfing" with many vignettes and excellent photos. Fred's part Portagee so the embellishments are there. I have a copy for your personal perusal if we ever hook up. I am again stoked and madly searching for all old photos. Keep em' coming!!! Haouli Maka Hiki Hou, Hugo "da Jaw"

Ray, I'm from Santa Monica originally. Started surfing at Malibu in 1956 after High School. The first time I walked down the path to the beach this big guy in a car at the curb says,"you can do it boy". That was Tubesteak. I surfed for about 20 years. I'll be 60 this summer. I moved to Santa Barbara 22 years ago and Carpinteria 5 years ago. In Jr. High a friend invited me to a friends' cattle ranch...Hollister Ranch...years later I applied for a job there as a cowboy..ha ha..they laughed and sent me and my VW Bug away. I still body surf locally and love to 'showoff' at Carp. beach. Few people know how to really bodysurf so it's still fun but the last time I went out I got picked up and bounced off the bottom head first and realized I was still vulnerable to the ways of the waves. Ouch! I live about 5 minutes (on my bike) from Rincon. Thanks for the history. Have fun, Tom

I'm from San Luis Obispo originally and my brother and I used to invade Rincon, Hollister Ranch and points North when I was a kid, I'm pushing 50 now. The water gets colder every year but Johnny Rice and my son get me back into the cold water up here. Anyway thought I'd use your t-shirt pics on your order page and put it on the noserider page up here, so if they didn't want the board at least Terry might sell a t-shirt. Hollister Ray

Do you know Johnny Rice or did you surf with him? I think he was part of the Manhattan Beach crowd. He hung with Velzy a lot and learned to shape for him of course. Johnny's 60 as well, still rides his board 3-5 days a week in Santa Cruz, refuses to ride on the weekends with the crowds. I find the crowds aren't very big for the dawn patrol. That's when I surf the most right before work. Is it O. K. to pass on the surf memories to Johnny, I'm sure he has some stories to tell.

I don't know Johnny and I pretty much stuck to Malibu and points north. Once in a while we'd venture to South Bay but the surfers seemed hostile and very protective of their beach breaks (if they didn't know you). Thanks, Tom

ATomMc: Have you drowned yet? El Nino called in from the Tropics and asked me to warn you and the rest of the La Conchita Coast.

Heading for Mex in two weeks for sum cervazas, sun, surf, and mujeres, locked in and loaded up on Hep A and B Vaccines; tetanus and a PSA Test, tambien, then my arm fell off. Trying to Schedule a jump to HNL in March, providing I don't get it on the Freeway in one of these frickin' downpours. I've put off new tires on my Pathfinder until I hydroplaned past two Water Skiers on the 710 freeway last week.

If I run into Pat Curren, Walt Phillips, or Mike Doyle down there I will file a report with youse'.

Both Son's hopped over to Kauai for Mom's 53rd birthday and made a go-out at "Rifle Range" which is at the Barking Sands Missile Range (end of the road on the south shore past Waimea Canyon). Long, Clean, but very large waves, fortunately open door as they got the "wrap" from the Kauai North Shore which was 30'-40'+; the wrap was a crisp 12'+ with a few HRTD Tubes. (Da Bus-Honolulu Rapid Transit District) The swell was so huge and the wrap so long that "Infinities" just beyond Hanapepe and a south swell spot were closing out at 10' mostly due to the angle.

Hope you are well. Plan to get up to your area in the next several months; We must a have Board Meeting. Mas Adelante, Hugo

How could I forget the infamous duo. Are there still wonderful characters on the beach? I don't hangout at surfing beaches these days but my impression is that everyone is very slick (and obviously young). Driving up in BMW's with boards in carrying cases. You don't see many boards sticking out of the trunks of cars or station wagons (boards got real small) or guys surfing in cutoff jeans or 'baggies'. Terms now are "rip", "tear" and "slash". Of course the term 'iron-cross' has become politcally incorrect but does anyone have fun surfing these days? Remember the day when Muñoz brought that 16 ft. balsa board and 3 guys rode it at once? I borrowed it and rode it by myself for one wave. What fun and trust there was among those of us who knew each other. I had my board stolen from behind my house one night and I always suspected Dora or his wannabe Colin Gilbert of Beverly Hills. I saw my board at Zuma months later and walked up to the Valley types sitting nearby and said "this is my board. I don't know where you got it or how much you paid for it, but I'm taking it back". I picked up the board (which I had imbedded a potato-bug into the nose) and walked off with no resistance. LaDeDa. Are John and Beverly still living?

JOHN SMITH IS GONE. THE CAN WAS SUPPOSED TO BE AT CYNTHIA'S BUT WAS A NO SHOW. C'EST LA VIE. I'M ON THE WAY TO DEWEY WEBER'S GRAND OPENING. tubesteak2000

Appreciate the Email with the famous Life Mag photo on your Web site. My son's have the original framed and hanging in the house in Honolulu. The photo always gets comments from all their buddies who have tatoos, shaved heads, jet ski's and tow each other into those North Shore monsters. The definition of fun has definitely changed.

We lost Ernie Tanaka last week, who passed away and was scattered out at his favorite break, Queens Surf. He joins Duke K. and a host of other famous Beach Boys like Blue Makua, et al in the lineup there, and leaves a son, Tommy. Ernie was 59 and had survived a heart attack, but I am still trying to get information on the exact cause, as the heart attack frightened him into a better life style, dropping from two packs to one pack, and from portuguese sausage, spam, and rice to ham and eggs. He was a great friend of Cy Carey and Turtle and came to California during our hot time in the fifties with Ken Tilton, Terry Woodall, Alan Gomes, Paul Strauch, Chubby Mitchell, and George Kapu. (I think we lost Kapu a couple of years ago when his liver left his body).

Ernie had some local friends he stayed in touch with over the years, if you remember Kia Kenny, who played music at the old 'Sip N Surf' in Santa Monica Canyon and Reno Abelliera, Sr. still chopping Haoles at his Karate studio in Anaheim, as well as, Ron Kanemura, "Haga" with whom I play volleyball every week with at Corona Del Mar. I remember many good "go outs" at Malibu, County Line, and Topanga with Ernie, who got a engineering degree from USC and taught swimming at the Tocaloma Club in Brentwood, when he was here, and some great days at Tong's, Rice Bowl, and Suicides with Kimo Austin Reno A. Jr., and Paul Strauch when I first moved to the Islands.

Anyway, I will now be extra careful of my two Tanaka boards, 8'8" round tail mini-gun (my version of the short board and an absolute rocket) and a 10'9" - "Publics Special"; Rabbit's brother, Jama Kekai, has the twin. We continue to be in touch with our mortality. Keep those unbelieveable photos coming.

PS: The only other guy in the Life article that I could identify besides those you named was a very young Hal Jepson, the film maker. Surfed Honolulu Easter Week, blowing like hell; Cabo May 8th etc. was perfect but small; Trying for July 4th in Honolulu for the Canoe Races, then back to Mex the end of July for hot weather, hot south swell, and hot women. Mas Adelante, Hugo (June 1998)

I just wanted to drop a note to say thank you for the brief remembrance of my dad on your website. From what I could tell, an old friend of my dad wrote in to tell of his passing. I am really stoked that he was well loved and will be remembered. His death was obviously a huge loss and is still very difficult to deal with, but hearing stories like that motivates me to work hard and follow in his footsteps continuing a career in surfing and shaping. Please send us more information on your website the stories and pictures were great! Aloha

Greetings from New Zealand. Many thanks for your email. The excellent site you refer to is not mine, but was created and is continually improved by an old-time Malibu surfer named Tom McBride. The letter telling of your dad's passing was written by Hugh Foster (another major player from the old Malibu brigade) and is published above.

The following is what I wrote in response to Hugh's (Da Jaw) letter: Read your correspondence was sad to hear that Ernie Tanaka has passed from this world. He was one of the special people who changed my way of looking at things many years ago. In the water we'd jockey for waves but we'd also talk a lot, especially on those slow days when sitting on the beach made more sense than sitting on a surfboard. One day he said, "That's the difference between the Western way of looking at things and the Oriental way. The Westerner sees a flower and says, "That's a beautiful flower. Let's take it apart, analyze the various components and figure out how it works." But an Oriental sees a flower and says, "That's a beautiful flower."

Ernie also saved my ass one morning at Secos (Arroyo Sequit). It was in the days before surfer wetsuits and it was bloody cold. There was a big south swell with a brisk offshore wind and the waves were peaking in front of the rock for incredible long drop take-offs and big, fast rides. I got an intense cramp in one of my calve muscles between sets and the pain came on so suddenly that I sorta panicked. Ernie paddled over to me, steadied my board with both hands and calmly told me to stand up on my board and put some weight on the leg. I did what he told me, the cramp went away, and I learned a lesson that I never forgot. But it was his calmness and care that I remember most.

Your dad was a remarkable person. I can't pretend to have known him well, but I can say that anyone who has had the honor of knowing him, even just a little, will treasure his memory with great love and respect. He was also a damn good surfer and a pleasure to watch in action. Keep in there

aTomMc: Ah...Doug "Personality" Poseley, remember him well and the perpetual wrist cast that was "something new" you could wear in the water. I am scanning my disappearing brain cells for time, place, and personae, but I saw Doug on one of his rare visits to Honolulu and I have to say Cy Carey was the instigator of the meeting. Time line: some time in the mid 80's I think. Doug had been living on Maui and finally married a little blonde hippy gal and disappeared into upcountry Makawao which is a little cowboy village on the way up the mountain to Kula, Maui. He looked great and was very talkative for Doug and as I remembered he asked about everyone, and then promptly dissolved to Maui, which, as you know, is a lifestyle unto its own. I am sure he is still there living minimalistically and surfing the secret spots, of which, there are dozens. Your inquiry will prompt me to call Cy and have a suds with him whence I go over to discuss Ernie, Doug, et al. I think we all kinda follow our own paths to score goals and scare demons, but it is always great to reunite with those with whom we shared a definite precious time in history, and who have survived thus far. Sidebar: Got Emailed from a Cundall in Pennsylvania thanks to your Web page who was searching for a long lost cousin, Roger, mi amigo, in Honolulu. The Net is definitely here to stay. Mas Luego, Hugo

Doug Poseley and I surfed and travelled together. One moonless night as we drove through Camp Pendleton on PCH in his '50 Pontiac with our boards sticking out of the trunk, his headlights went out. Total blackout. We found the side of the road and Doug used some tin-foil to re fuse the wiring and we carried on. I lived at the Silver Sword Inn in Kula, Maui for a while. It was wild, beautiful country on the side of Haleakala Crater. Doug was married to Erica for some years and laying carpet for money and sailing Hoby Cats at Kanapali. Many stories in that adventure but they don't have anything to do with surfing so I'll save them for another time. - Tom

da 'Steak????? Unbelieveable!! Incredible!!!! Tubesteak 2000...alive and well. Howzit, buddy?? It has been a while since I saw you at San Onofre. That was when you were the ambassador for the Surfrider Foundation. So many names you mentioned, no mas, pero, Walt Philips?? I thought he was in the Baja still alive and kickin'. And if you mention John Smith, in the same breath you must also mention, Harry Stonelake, Cynthia, the white dog, Virginia (Deetzy) and da Masochist. So many waves ago. Tom McBride's web page is bringing us out of the woodwork, and I know there must be more out in the Net. See JJ. Moon occasionally, and Bill Jensen, Taos, N.M. calls when he visits his daughter in San Diego, and Lester Arndt keeps in timely touch. Every return trip to Honolulu, I see Baby Dave Rochlen and sometimes Ricky (but rarely Robin) Grigg. The Cole brothers are still locked into the north shore and never come to town. Many have asked what board I was on in the Life Magazine picture. It was a Jacobs with a balsa stringer made for your neighbor in the Dana Point arena, Chick Edmunds, who hated it and returned it to Hap and I bought it. 10'6" of perfect wave riding machine. Some boards are never duplicated. I'd like to have that one back. Lovin' all of the vintage photos of you that T.McB is webbing. I must dig deep and come up with more. We fooled a lot of em' by making it this far. Hope you are well. Hugo

Leah wrote: Your site is really great. I'm doing a finals project for school on surfing in the 50's in Orange County. Do you know anything about Linda Benson or Marge Calhoun or any other women surfers during the time? Anyway, it was really helpful. Thanks. Leah

I knew Marge Calhoun and her daughters only through some encounters at the beach. I didn't know them personally other than I did take one of the daughters go-cart racing one night with friends. During the course of zipping around the track, she got her foot outside the scooter and ran into another car, chipping a bone in her ankle. It was painful and we took her to the emergency hospital and she got a cast and limped around 'till it healed. Marge's daughter's were named Robin and Candy and I think they all surfed. I never met Linda Benson. I searched for information yesterday and found one great picture of Linda surfing on a "vintage" web page by Surfer Magazine. You might contact Terry "TubeSteak" Tracey at tubesteak.org He may know something (or not). good luck, Tom McBride

Subject: Linda Benson and Marge Calhoun Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 From: FitngFalcn@aol.com

Hi again, just wanted to share with you what Tubesteak told me about Linda Benson and Marge Calhoun in case you're interested, Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it. Leah

What were they like? Linda and Marge are about 10 years apart in age. I met them both at Malibu c.1959. Linda came up one evening with Bill Fury and some kids from around Cardiff to surf Malibu. They were six years younger than me, but you could tell they were enthralled with being at Malibu with Gidget and Kahuna. We sat around a beach fire and told surf stories. Linda was 15 at the time. They camped on the beach that night and the next day at dawn they were in the water riding dinky waves two feet in height. Fury was hot but Linda was great, actually the best I'd ever seen. There weren't that many surfing contests in those days but Linda may have done something in the Makaha contest in Hawaii during the early '60s. She did stunt work in the old surfing movies such as Beach Blanket Bingo. I see her at least once a year at the American Cancer Society Luau in La Jolla. She lives in Valley Center near San Diego.

Marge Calhoun was a Malibu Gal living in Santa Monica with her husband Tom. She was of a different style than Linda, more like smooth ballroom dancing. She appeared to be involved with her kids who were excellent athletes themselves. She was divorced from Tom and married "Hevs" McClelland living in South Laguna.

Unfortunately there was not too much documentation on women surfing in the '50s and early '60s except for photos. I know you ran searches on them but nothing's on line. All this stuff happened forty years ago so it's sorta' slipped through the cracks. TUBESTEAK/MALIBU

There were a few girls who surfed at Malibu and we all knew each other. In general there was an unspoken code of conduct that was much more tolerant of "hoe dads" (farmers from the Valley) and "kooks" (from the Hawaiian word kukai which means shit). We all had fun and there wasn't too much direct competition and few contests and certainly nothing professional early on. There always was a hierarchy in the water and on the beach and you had to know who was top dog in the pecking order. You had to earn a place of respect based on your abilities and skill. You had to know enough to stay out of the way of someone better (or bigger) than you. It was real. Tom McBride

Aloha Tom, Surfing cyber space I dropped into your site and laid out a huge cut back.

One evening some where in the early sixties we were in the "pit" at Malibu. Bob Baron (pork chops) gave you some peanut butter and crackers and that began one of the most hilarious things I've ever seen in my life. You started to eat the stuff and then progressed into an uncontrollable spastic. There was peanut butter all over you and you were going into contortions. A group of tourist walked by. There was a crowd of people around you as you lay on the sand covered with peanut butter. The most insane thing is you didn't stop. I remember it getting darker and nobody left the beach. I was drop jawed completely in hysterical awe. I don't remember who else was there, but I've got to let you know that that performance left a life long impression and is still one of the funniest things I've ever seen.

Thank you very much and Mahalo for the opportunity to finally say this to you after all these years. Sitting on the beach at your sea lion house a few days later drinking wine I realized you had become an idol to me. That shows you how bizarre we were!

I've spent a lot of time since then in the Islands, mostly Kona. Took a bunch of years and worked treasure salvage in the Caribbean, sailed throughout the south pacific, sailed the atlantic coast, turned right at bermuda and spent years working small lobster fishing boats off the west coast of Ireland, spent five years on the beach in Oxnard in the 80's. Back In Aloha land, beautiful wife, children, outrageous left point break in the front yard and in the nutriceutical (?) business. Cracks me up. Still a regular in the lineup. Very cool website Tom, stay stoked, O bla di o bla da,

Your memory made me laugh. I have a slightly different but similar recollection of the "event". I still love to goof around but am not as extreme these days. Still having fun. What ruined the peanut butter thing for me was a friend sitting on the slope up to the highway watching me. When I was through playing, he said he didn't find it at all funny that I'd made fun of an epileptic or spastic. His reaction put a big damper on what I had done in pure fun. I remember talking like a mentally-challenged person and this just wasn't funny to him. (It isn't funny and was in bad taste.) I went surfing with this guy a lot. His thing was to make comments about any woman we saw as we drove around. This was annoying to me. We each have our priorities. Turns out this 'friend' got married to a high school classmate of mine and she recently told me that my 'friend' had sexually abused their adopted daughter. The couple are no longer married. And so it goes. I live in and manage a Senior Mobile Home Park in Carpinteria. What I deal with now are the aged and dying. Lots of fun! Sounds like you're still having an adventurous life. Thanks for the memories.

I didn't know Dewey or Lance, but Miki Dora was always real friendly towards me. Why I don't know. For a while there, I thought maybe he was gay because of his friendliness, which was just a young guy being paranoid.

I don't know if you remember this or not, but I was talking to Denny Aaberg about the time they closed down the Malibu Pier and threw a huge "beach party." Miki was dressed as an American Indian. I was feeling pretty good after a few glasses of wine and walked up to him and told him what a cool costume he had on. (I'm 1/4 Cherokee & 1/8 Osage) He pulled me aside and said "Don't tell anyone." As if nobody recognized him.

They rented the movie "Dynamite" which was a poorly made film by Buzz Bailey. Basically it was a bunch of outakes from Grant Rohloff's unwanted footage. But that wouldn't matter to the Idahoans...or so they thought.

They drove up there in an old black "hearse" with surfboards strapped to the top. When they arrived in Boise, where they had rented an auditorium, they hooked up with a local radio station and went on the air passing themselves off as Lance Carson, Johnny Fain, Mickey Dora, Buzz Bailey, etc. The next day, the local kids, mostly girls, heard about the young studs from California, who drove a hearse and they became overnight celebreties.

They ended up staying at some young girl's house, as her parents were on vacation. Three days prior to their cinematic triumph, they had wild parties at the house that turned into orgies. The only problem with this, is the young men in town didn't take a shining to the boys from California, but let them do their thing.

On the day of the premiere, there was also a "Hot Rod" convention going on at the local fairgrounds. After all their advertising, posters, public relations, etc., exactly two people showed up !!! Two !!! And six very depressed entrepeneurs. After the film was over, the boys went out and got drunk. One guy named Dave became very belligerent and started calling all the locals a bunch of "hayseed potato farmers." Well it didn't take long for word of that to get around.

Later that night at around 12:00 am, while the boys were nursing their wounds at the girl's home, they heard about three or four carloads of local jocks gunning their engines outside the house. Before they could get to the door, the jocks busted it down, charged inside and beat the living shit out of the boys, while cursing at them to take their "faggot surfer butts back to California." As if it wasn't bad enough that their dreams of "making a fortune" had gone bust, but now they were physically beaten as well. I'll never forget the looks on their faces when they came limping back to our neighborhood. We had expected this big triumphunt return. But looking back on it, it was truly a typical classic story of the surf scene in the 60's.

Tom, your web site is fantastic! My memories of Malibu in 59 and early 60's are a treasure. My older brother Vaughn and I hung mostly with the Laughlin brothers, Tom and Jim. Ernie, Nick, Lance, Doug and the others were constant entertainment. Surfing was great in those days but was overtaken by events on the beach many times. I remember one day you imitated a biker starting his Harley and adjusting the carb while cruzin along. I can't remember laughing as hard. A day didn't pass without reaching max limits of somekind. Any idea where Nick K is now? Home is now in Oxnard. Hope to see you out at C street or other Ventura break sometime. Thanks for the memories.

November 3, 2007 Just heard from Brian via a phone call. He's in town staying at Carpinteria State Beach for a weekend visit with his family. He's currently living in 1000 Oaks, CA. Great to hear from people who enjoyed the fun of the early days at Malibu. Tom

I'm at the beach at Malibu and here comes a spear fisherman walking up the beach toward the point. The tide was fairly low and the rocks were exposed. The waves were small and only a few guys were out surfing.

The spear fisher guy goes out right at the point. He's having to lie down in the shallow water since it's easier than trying to walk over the slippery rocks. A wave comes toward him with a surfer on it. Fisher guy stands up to face the wave and mistakenly pulls the trigger on his loaded spear gun.

The next scene is bizarre. I see the Spear guy walking back down the beach. Next to him is the surfer. The surfer is holding the spear which is in his thigh, the string attached to the spear leads directly to the spear guy. They walk together and we rush to help. There is no blood and the speared surfer is walking.

We can't believe it. We help the speared surfer into a car at the curb but as we're lowering him into the passenger's seat, he slips and the spear bangs against the top of the door opening. Ouch!.

He's driven off. Hours later, the speared surfer returns to the beach with his upper thigh taped. We're all curious about what happened. The fire department paramedics had to push the spear through the guys leg in order to cut off the barb, then remove to shaft. Yuck. Fortunately the spear didn't hit any bone or major arteries, went through muscle only. It all turned out OK. Tom McBride

Scott, Searching for the perfect wave is a life-long adventure. It's not so much the actual wave but rather the quest that fills most of the stories of people who surf or have surfed. It's an attitude for adventure and free-spiritedness. None of the commercially produced surfing films I've seen has come close to describing the lifestyle. If you're anywhere near a surf shop you might look at the magazines: Surfer or Surfer's Journal. Often they will include in-depth articles about individuals who have maintained an involvement in some form of surfing. Surfers today are travelling all over the world to find the perfect wave. Sometimes they find it but as with all youth there's always hope of something better. In the end we all look back and find simple recollections of something quite elusive; an exotic sunset, a special day when everything seemed perfect or some radically bad time when we almost drown. In the Zen of living, you come across the main theme: "Here and Now". This is not some exotic religion or thought process but rather a way of being in the present. The most important element of surfing, "You should have been here..."

Dear Mr. McBride: I wanted to thank you for your help in giving me resources for surfing stories back in December. I especially appreciated the more spiritual side of surfing that you alluded to, because that is a dimension that is probably not fully understood by the general public, yet is evidently an important part of the inner preparation by serious surfers. I have been awed and humbled by the men and women who put their lives on the line time after time in search of that "perfect ride." After reading numerous exciting stories (I devoured John Long's recent book, entitled "The Big Drop") I finally chose the story of Duke Kahanamoku's famous 1917 ride at Waikiki to tell as a demonstration in my story-telling workshop yesterday. I used big wave sound effects and a short clip of a monstrous wipe-out at Pipeline from "Endless Summer". It was a wonderful story and I hope I did justice to it. Again, thank you for helping me; it is much appreciated.

"Mahape a ale wala'ua," Duke would say. "Don't talk, keep it in your heart." Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku left the surfing world and this life on January 22, 1968.

Yours cordially, Scott Thayer, Cub Scout Leader Trainer and Cubmaster, Pack 413, Hanford, CA

Later, I learned the whole story. After I'd twisted my knee, I went into shock and Chuck King pulled me out of the water. Just to say thanks, I took one step on my good leg, took a swing at him, missed and fell back on the beach. Apparently, I went crazy after that. Yelling, thrashing around and so on. When I came to my senses a few moments later, Jeb and Chuck pulled me up onto the dry sand, trying to keep me warm with a blanket. After Chuck was confident that I wasn't going to swing on anybody else he said he was going to call an ambulance. I was pretty embarrassed by the whole thing - there was quite a crowd by now - and I asked Chuck if Jeb could drive me to the hospital in my car. He agreed and I spent the next few months on crutches and having physiotherapy. The specialist told me I'd never be able to surf again and that one leg would always be shorter than the other. I said bullshit and decided to prove him wrong.

Months later, I paddled out at Hubbyland with my cane, stood up on a mushy eight footer, rode it till it petered out and someone I knew paddled over to hand back the cane I'd jettisoned when I'd stood up. It was the last time I used it.

A couple of weeks after my accident I plucked up some courage to go down to State Beach and apologize to Chuck. He laughed, shook my hand, smiled and said something like, "Ah, hell. I knew you were in shock, otherwise I would have decked ya." Of THAT I had no doubt.

I'll drop Marty Sugarman (H2O) a note and ask if you knows what's happening with Chuck these days. Later gator ... Bob

Sorry to be the bearer of sad news. I just received a fax about Chuck King from Marty Sugarman of H2O Magazine that says that Chuck died several years ago.

"It was unexpected and sudden. His large heart simply gave out. We had a very moving service for Chuck at Will Rogers State Beach in front of his lifeguard stand, Tower 18. His ashes were taken by his son, Matthew, to Hawaii and scattered off the coast of Oahu."

Marty goes on to say that he misses Chuck and that he was one of the pillars of the magazine. He also wanted me to let you know that more of Chuck's stories will be appearing in future editions of the mag as a tribute. I can never think of someone with Chuck's spirit as ever being 'dead'. Chuck was that kind of guy ... and still is.

Yes, Chuck lives on. He was a kind and gentle soul. He was a true beach friend. The kind of guy you meet now and then at the beach and that's the only place you know him. We were friends but I never knew where he lived. He was a rugged individualist and I know he loved to write stories about some of his adventures and fantasies. Aloha to Chuck King.

Finally found your Web Page again, and I am holding my sides reading the stories. You have done a great job with the stories and the pictures. But I noticed that our mails were dated 1998. Did we lose 2 or 3 years again. Anyway, time to write, as I sit in the midst of an electrical storm in Cabo San Lucas thoroughly digging it as it never freaking rains here. Still partying and running charters on BlackJack with a bounty of south swells hitting since May. The third Chubasco sent the biggest shore break to Cabo I have seen yet, Waimea Bay was outdone. Baja Sur is so primitive it reminds of growing up in da Bu'. Had a visit with Mike Doyle, the 4th of July. He won again the 6 K paddle to Lands End and back outdistancing most. Still the oldest and the strongest. My left shoulder is perpetually hurting from lifting all those 12 oz. Corona so I loaned my 11' Malibu Special to Irak Collins, Mexican Surfchamp, and he came in third on a stock surfboard in the face of those racing models. Next year is his year. Hugh Jr. won the World Billfish Tournament in Kona this year on Ryans boat which was good for both of them. He is also still towing his buddies into the monsters on the North Shore in Winter. I am trying to get over for Labor Day but the fishing heats up here as does the charters, so maybe a Christmas trip this year only. Hope all is well in SB. Hasta pronto, Hugo

Yes Hugh it's been 2 years since we started passing words back and forth. Time flies when you're having fun! Sounds like you're doing OK. Storms are fun and I hope it doesn't get too wet down there in Baja. Take it easy on the shoulder. I'm dealing with sudden maladies myself. Not sure what's wrong but am starting a series of tests over the next few months. Put myself into emergency care with chest pains but ECG showed no heart problems. Am thinking it's my gut reacting to having to deal with a bunch of old farts who act like little kids in this trailer park. A bunch of dopes who expect me to solve all their little squabbles. Got ripped the other night and then recovered to feel better than ever. Take care of yourself. Love, Tom

Thanx for the mailback. You need wings to stay above the bullshit in all endeavors, your park included. Love the rain in Baja as it is only for a month or two, then it is typical Mexico, mucho calor, seco, y polvo, hot, dry and dust. Heard from Feigel and we are trading mails. I have lost the brain cells that remembered his face, but I know the name. One of these days I'll remember. Sorry about the chest pains, but with a good ekg and lung xray you're golden; probably stress from the park idiotos; they are everywhere and down here it is embarassing when they drive their rv's down and clean out the markets of fresh salsa, kitty litter, and prune juice, and they are all ugly and are at least 250 lbs or better, men women and kids. Truly the ugly Americans. Hard to believe how time flies. I am using your web page to recontact our buddies before they punch. Still haven't found Jim Sproat or Jimmy Dixon. Practice those 12 oz curls with Coronas, helps the mind but screws up shoulders. Mas pronto, Hugo

Great Website, you take me back to the childhood every kid in the universe dreams about. I was reading through your site when I ran across a name I hadn't heard in forty years, Jerry Whiteside. Jerry, Tom and Russell lived in Ocean Park, three blocks for POP Pier. Their dad Ed let us use his garage for a surf clubhouse. We were about a mile from the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium. I was 14 years old and had a Dave Sweet surfboard. Members; Phil David, Wes Wagner, John Politchi, Teddy and his big brother (I was so scared of this guy) Gleason. We were all Santa Monica Jr. Lifeguards. One event I will never forget is when we went to compete in the Jr. lifeguard championships in Carpinteria. The Paddleboard team went with Mike Doyle and Leon Levy to the competition in their two heats. Mike drove up in a yellow hearse and Leon drove up in a black hearse. We stopped to surf Rincon on the way home. This was the killer surf trip for a kid from 'Ghost Town'. Yes, I lived in Venice. Not nice Venice, but 7th and Brooks Ave. I would walk down Brooks Ave. and paddle to POP or Bay St. After surfing all day I'd walk home sometimes and get picked up by members of the 'Bloods', who where my friends. Surfboard through the window, I hopped in with three black dudes with black bandanas. I was tired and grateful for the ride. I remember going surfing with two lifeguards who I was assigned to help as a Jr. guard. Larry Shanable and Bruce Lucoff came to pick me up at my house and freaked that I lived in the middle of 'Blood' turf. I became a Santa Monica Lifeguard and was honored to work with Tommy Zahn at the Santa Monica Pier. Doug Poseley was the other deck hand. We rescued lots of riptide victims and made the 'black ball' observation a daily ritual. Working with Tom Zahn was like having the world of surfing legends on parade in front of you. Fred Hemmings, Corny and Pete Cole, Pete Peterson, Downing, Eurban, so much history. My history as a lifeguard was a little tainted. You could take Gilbert out of Venice, but you could not take the Venice out of Gilbert. Enough said. I lived on the North Shore of Oahu, at Waimea and then Sunset Point. My friends Gerry Speace and Jay Lenskey had been living there for a while and I got right into the local blend. I got Sunset wired and was in with all the locals at Sunset. I love that place. Gerry would come over at daybreak and beat on my door, "Hey, Gilbert, wake up, South Shore is 15 feet, we're going to Yokohama Bay". And that was life at 28 years old. I now live on 20th Street in Huntington Beach, at 55 still surf. I have a 7'9" flat bottom fish shape and a 10'4' nose rider that catches everything. I shaped them in my garage and had them glassed at 'Clear Glass', New Port Beach. I also have a 9' Donald Takayama. I was surfing in competition when I turned 50 in the USSF Grand Masters Division. It was a blast paddling out at Steamer Lane and making it into the finals on my own shape.

Oh yea, McBride I remember you from Jack Pollard Glass shop in Marina Del Rey. Thanks for the opportunity to get back to them good old days. Gilbert Perea

editor's note: Tom McBride never worked at Pollard's glass shop in the marina. He did work attempting to pour custom foam blanks in a little shop in Topanga Canyon for Tom Flaherty (sp). The mold didn't hold and the mix was all wrong and we blew the mold apart with too much chemical pressure and ended up with syrup in places where we hadn't stirred the poisonous stuff enough. We did produce one board and when it was finished we took it to Malibu and tried it out. It was terrible! Too thick and it ended up being nothing more than a Plank. Gave up that job - real quick.

I paddled out into a chatter of older men all on longboards. Being rather young and a feeling awkward I hesitated to initiate any kind of conversation. The waves were rather nice that day about 4-6 ft with nice shape. When a set rolled in I wasn't in great position but I went for a decent left anyway. To my suprise as I was paddling for the wave I heard cheers coming from behind me and when I finally got up I looked to see and hear the older men cheering for me. I think I cracked an enormous smile than proceded to fall as I tried to cutback. When I paddled back out some of the men smiled at me and said, "nice ride". I was blown away by their kindness. No one cared that I had never surfed there before. In fact I began to make friends with a 30 year old car salesman who frequented the spot. To say the least I was stoked. And even though I fell on that wave it represented a turning point in my outlook on surfing. Previously when I surfed I had a hard time relaxing and being happy unless I was performing well. I had learned that you don't talk to locals from a few bad experiences I had had surfing at the pier in San Clemente. But after surfing at Tamarack I realized the true point in my surfing. I began to surf because I loved it and because I enjoyed everything about it. No longer was I concerned with how I performed. No longer did I believe that a negative attitude toward any non-locals was required. To me those guys at Tamarack and the old timers at Old Mans that are so kind to youngblood truly represent the spirit of what surfing should be. I read a quote somewhere that stated what I believe surfing should be. The author was talking about how surfing culture has changed and how the surf culture of old focused on fun, mutual enjoyment and respect for the coastal environment. It's really sad to see the state our world is in. People killing one another because their beliefs differ, people letting pollution infest our water, air, and earth, and on top of all that some people can't even find it in their hearts to share the waves. Well I hope that this has touched your soul and changed the world (just kidding). I think the world, at least the surfing world, would be much better off if everyone adopted an attitude like the guys at Tamarack.

I was going through Surfer mag and found a link to your page. Dam! You have some old pictures. I use to surf for Dewey in the early 60's and lived with Iggy, Donald and Dewey in Hermosa on 25th Ave near the old railroads tracks. I remember surfing Malibu when all the mentioned names were there and a few missing ones also. Do you remember Bobby Baron? Tubesteaks son, comes here to visit with his family. I haven't seen "Bag's" in over 35 years, nor Steve Smith who use to work for Dewey at the first shop which was on Lincoln Blvd. in Venice which was the old glassing shop of ???? Henry Ford use to guard there also along with Tommy Zahn I believe, I can't remember?? I also traveled with Chubby Mitchell and Kimo Hollinger in Chick Edmundson's old Willy's jeep. Too much fun in those days. You ever hear about John Kemper? sorry.all these names are coming back to me. Anyway, I enjoy'd visiting your page and remembering all the fun times I had during the " Surfing Explosion" in California. Aloha from Hanalei,Kauai Peter"Pope"Kahapea <hanalei1@aloha.net>

Howzit Peter "Pope", Yes I remember Bobby (Porkchops) Baron and I knew Tommy Zahn, Chubby, Kimo. Don't remember John Kemper (wasn't Chick Edmundson a big blond guy?). I have some old pictures of Henry Ford and Freddie Fowler. I haven't seen any of these guys in years. Some have passed on to the other side. I went to Rincon the other day and thought I might recognize someone. Ha! I forget I'm over 60. What issue of Surfer Magazine had a link to my page? Thanks for writing Aloha Tom McBride

Aloha T - I got a chuckle out of your comment about going to Rincon and maybe running into somebody there. I was in Austrailia last year with Greg & Buff and a bunch of others, Vardeman, Granny, etc for the NoosaHead Longboard Contest and an ole man outa my past show'd up ta see Greg and da rest......Bob Cooper!! He didn't remember me but when I was around 15 y/o he was getting ready to move to Austrailia. I use to ride Rincon with Chubby and Hollinger and we'd run into Bob or Reny, Bobby Barron, Dora, etc. There wasn't much of a crowd during those days in the early 60's. California Street, Port Hueneme, Stanley's, Ventura Overhead, Hollister Ranch. I don't think I'd trade ANY of those days growing up in California as a young Hawaiian boy. Sleeping under Manhattan Beach Pier. Chubby giving me a job @ 75 cents an hour at the Hibachi Restaurant and letting me move in with Hollinger and him. Anyway, I found your page in SurferMag.com ... linkage .... West Coast/Hawaii ..... Surf-Malibu-Photo's-TMcB When I get to the West Coast I look for ole friends but like you .... can't seem to find them anymore ... and I'm 54. Oh well ... the only place I seem to find them anymore is at Longboard functions and I try to make a few each year when $$$$ allows me to. Aloha Tom and Mahalo for your stories!!! Peter "Pope" Kahapea

Aloha Popester :) Glad to hear I'm not the only old fart around. I saw an article in one of the surf mags about Cooper. I wouldn't recognize him if I met him on the street. Mike Doyle came through Santa Barbara a few years ago to promote his book: "Morning Glass". I reintroduced myself and mentioned that the last time I'd seen him was when we were the only guys out at the Overhead. Many moons ago. I agree about not trading those lazy simple days for anything. We were lucky to have been there. I'll be 62 soon and it's a bit weird. Mahalo Tom Did you know Jitz Tabata (not sure of spelling)? Really nice guy I knew at Waikiki in the late 50's.

Re: HowZit & Aloha! Wed, 05 Apr 2000 From: Robert R. Feigel Organization: http://surfwriter.net To: Peter Kahapea <hanalei1@aloha.net>

Looks like we have quite a number of connections from those days. All those names are familiar - some more than others. I just got Iggy's address in Haleiwa from Caroline Weber and have been cranking up to write him. My introduction to the South Bay crew was my friendship with Kenny McWilliam, Iggy's old sidekick. I grew up in Santa Monica and Malibu, but always felt at home in South Bay. The Pattersons welcomed me like family and my girlfriend lived in South Bay so I spent a lot of time down there for a while. Fond memories of many, many parties or just sitting around enjoying sunsets, beers and slack-key guitars. My Hawaiian mates called me 'Steve Allen fella' because I not only looked a bit like him in my glasses (handsomer of course), but was usually clowning around. Still do.

Clowning around got Kenny and me in some trouble one day when we were looking after Tom Flaherty's shop up on Lincoln in Venice (not far from where Dewey moved after the shop down on Pacific Avenue near Hubbyland). It was a hot, boring day and Kenny and I decided we'd make pretty good stuntmen and started a fake a fight. At one point Kenny grabbed a rusty old cane cutter that was hanging around and I hopped up on an old 40 gallon barrel outside the shop, pretending to leap out of the way while Kenny took swipes at my feet.

Guess we were pretty convincing, because suddenly three police cars screeched to a stop in front of the shop and gun totting officers had us surrounded. We were pretty breathless, especially when we saw the crowd that was watching from a safe distance. But we were finally able to explain that it was all a joke and got away with a warning. Later on, Tom Flaherty asked if anything had happened while he was gone. "Nothin' much," we said and left it at that. Figure Bruce Lee must have been watching us that day and stole some of our moves.

Got tied up with a surf mag called Surfguide in the early to mid-sixties. Wrote a monthly feature called Feigel Fables that poked fun at surfbiz. The last one I wrote was called The Saga of Robin Hoad. The heroes were Sir Robin Hoadingham, Count of Mouldy Crisco (& Vice Regent General of His Majesty's Competition Team) and His Majesty himself, King Dewey (who was away fighting the El Monte Legion). The villains were Baron Vincent von Moronhouse (Vice Regent General to His Majesty's Lifeguard Service & Sheriff) and Prince John the Stingy (who was jealous of Robin and wanted to make sure he didn't win the Honeycomb Contest). Pretty tame stuff, and most people thought it was funny except Prince John 'the Stingy' Severson. He sued the magazine and it went under.

I lost contact with most of the old crowd when I moved to Maui in the late-sixties. Traveled & surfed throughout Mexico and Central America. Ended up living in Costa Rica for a year or so in the early seventies and finally settled in Aotearoa New Zealand in 1974. After all those moves I'd lost contact with almost everyone except my family and have only recently been reconnecting - thanks to the internet.

Although I continued writing over the years and contributed bits & pieces to Tom's website, that Feigel Fable was the last thing I wrote for a surf mag since1964. Then, a little over a year ago a magazine called Pacific Longboarder asked if they could re-publish a couple of the old Feigel Fables. That led to me doing an article on the renaissance of longboarding in Aotearoa and then another magazine contacted me. Currently, I'm working on articles for The Surfer's Journal, H2O and PLB. And the wheel goes on and on. So do I ... better give your eyes a rest. Thanks for getting in touch and PAH-LEEEEEZE pass on my very best to anyone who might remember me after all these years. Aroha from Aotearoa, hope we keep in touch PS - Thanks also for the photo.

Aloha Bob... I saw your posting in surfermag.com / linkage/ West Coast-Hawaii / Tom McBrides / Surf Malibu-Photos-TMcB. I was trying to remember you because I rode for Dewey in the 60's and your name does ring a bell with me. I lived in the South Bay in the 60's with Chubby and Kimo Hollinger, hung around Terry Osborne, Ricky Hatch, Skipper Fats lived with Donald and Iggy on 25th St. in Hermosa etc. Before that, I came outa Waikiki, when Raymond Patterson was glassing boards for Velzy here in Hawaii and Terry Woodall was the manager for the shop. Bobby Patterson was just getting out of the Service and they all eventually made the move to the Coast. Dave Sweet was trying to get started on Oahu and Brewer was in a small shop in the back off Ena Road. Bla James, Manong, Boots Mathews, Boogie Kalama, Blue Makua Jr, Raymond, BuddyBoy Kaohi, etc. all use to hang out there during the summer time or in Waikikki at the old Waikiki Dairy Queen. Anyway, can ya drop me a line and help refresh my memory.....PAH-LEEEEZE ! Aloha from Hanalei Bay, Kauai Peter"Pope"Kahapea

Enjoyed the peep back into the past. I am in my early fifties now. I grew up in Virginia Beach on the East coast and surfed during the sixties. I'll always remember the first few East Coast Surfing Championship held back then. Every west coast surfer of fame was there. It was so unreal to me at that time to see the surfers that I almost "worshiped": Dewey Weber, Corky Carroll, Laura Powers, etc., actually walking/surfing at my local beach. Surfing was and always has been a major part of my life. As I get older and think back on my life, I realize more and more that my younger days of surfing were some of the best days of my life. Paddling out into the lineup at the break of dawn on a summer day, the rising sun painting the ocean amazing shades of orange. Feeling the gentle warm breeze against your skin. Seeing a pod of dolphins playing out beyond the break. Taking off into your first glassy swell of the day. Feeling the rush and hearing nothing but the sound of your board cutting down the face. All alone, yet somehow feeling part of something much much bigger. Damn, I am SO glad I was born and lived near the ocean. I can't imagine a life without experiencing the ocean and surfing. I enjoyed your site. Brought back some memories of a time I really enjoyed.

In the beginning, I didn't really have a thorough plan regarding what I wanted my collection of web pages to be about. When I chose my email name 'tmcascd' it stood for - tm (tom mcbride) cas (cassettes) cd (cd's). I thought I was going to do music business and art things. As I started to put together the surfing pages I got responses from other people and it became obvious there was a greater interest in surfing than some independent local music business. I was lucky to have been part of the first wave of a new generation of surfers in the mid 50's. Especially in hindsight when the sport exploded in popularity. I didn't see anyone else recalling the average experiences about the day to day lifestyle surfing became for me. The early surfing films were great! The early Hollywood films were terrible and I hated them (bunch of phoney plots with actors and scripts). Big Wednesday really fried my brain (not to mention the infamous Gidget series). I was actually pissed that surfing and surfers were being portrayed this way. The explosion happened and the rest is history. There's a lot of fodder fueling the flame of resentment within my little brain about what surfing became as opposed to what it meant to me during those formative years. It was fun and free. I am thankful that I was there when I was there. Tom

Dear Tom: Your web site took me back many years to a less complicated time. Looking back on it, surfing and being a part of the Malibu scene of the late 50's was a magic time in a magic place. But for Frederick Kohner, Gidget's dad, it is doubtful that anything would ever have come of that which we experienced. His kookie little book spawned a public interest that gave birth to a fascination for the Southern California lifestyle that still continues to this day. The California surfing subculture of the late 50's, even now, influences styles in leisure clothes, music and automobile designs. In the latter regard, almost every automobile manufacturer has its design studio located in Southern California. First came the book, then the movie and ultimately the TV series. Starting out in tiny Malibu, like a pebble dropped in a still pond, the public love affair with the "surfing lifestyle" spread, in ever expanding circles around the world. Looking back on those times with 20-20 hindsight, compels the exclamation: "bitchin". Your web site has a structure much like a moving wave. It's great to look back on those magic days but it's equally fascinating to see how the characters on that watery stage have evolved. The pictures brought back memories. The letters resurrected even more long dormant bits and pieces of forgotten times. Certainly no one that was there will ever forget Mickey Dora. Dora, in my opinion and with apologies to Phil Edwards, was simply the best long boarder ever. No one, to this day, is even a close second. Dora could take a one foot wave at Malibu and wear you out just watching him. That said, Dora was, of course, from another planet. After Dora, there were many in the cast of characters at Malibu whose names provoke a tug of a smile on my face. Several guys who became legends in their own right were Kemp Aaberg, Mickey Munoz, Johnny Fain and Mike Doyle. Tiny Kathy "Gidget" Kohner was well nicknamed. A girl midget. She was cute, bouncy and, although not known for her surfing, deserving of a prominent mention on your web site. Regulars out in the lineup who, to use today's terminology, had "game", included, you, Jerry Hirsch, Fraine Higgins, Hugo "da jaw", Doug McClure, Tom Powell, Pete and Corney Cole, Adrian Eznard, Jack Lamoureaux, Duke Michael, Marge Calhoun, Larry "Turtle" Durr and Lord Blears (early wrestling hero). Who could ever forget Blears bringing his professional wrestling buddies down, launching them on tandem boards and then standing around with the rest of the regulars, laughing like hell at their antics. As an aside, the best wave I ever saw at Malibu was ridden in the summer of either '57 or '58. It had been a big day and the sun had already gone down. Almost everyone was out of the water. A number of us were standing around a fire when a big set rolled in. Way out on the second point a shadowy figure took off, and almost in slow motion, stood up. The sky was still red in the background and the wave was so thin it looked translucent. It was so steep and lined up that it looked unmakeable. We were all spellbound watching the ride. The surfer, the board and the wave were an entity, rushing down into the cove. Suddenly someone exclaimed, "It's Marge Calhoun!". Shortly before she reached the pier, Marge kicked out and let the wave crash on the shore. None of us said a thing. There wasn't anything to say after that. Surfing, by itself, did not make Malibu what it was. Bill Royer, Dutch Van DerVort, Tubesteak and others, although surfers, were more recognizable on the beach holding court. They were characters and probably to this day, still are. Few passers by escaped their scrutiny and sometimes scathing critiques. It was with a touch of sadness that I read your (and Tubesteak's) comments about "old guys", those past 50 and not wanting to look funny like them. Bill Bragg, one of the legends of South Bay, thinks that you have completely missed the point. I agree with him. Why did you take up surfing to begin with? Most everyone I know took it up because it was "fun". When you were a kid, you rode the roller coaster because it was fun. Surfing is fun. Skiing is fun. Sky diving is fun. If surfing is fun, why should you really care what someone you never met (and would never "hang with") thinks about your fun? Do you for one minute think that the kid that took off on the short board and made two maneuvers before you got to your feet gave any thought to you on that wave past the end of that fateful day. He did not. Ironically, long boarding is back in favor. Lots of people still surf the short boards, but I suspect that more surfers favor the long board. My kids, now in their 30's started on short boards and got very good. They are now riding long boards because frankly its more enjoyable if you're not surfing everyday and have a life out of the water. As an aside, Kemp, Higgison, Gary Teller, L.J. Richards, George Carr, Bragg, and a few more guys are over 60 and still have incredible game. They don't look funny at all. Let's face it, surfing is one sport that is healthy, safe, cheap and immediately available to those of us who live on the coast. So Tom. I've got a couple of extra boards and wet suits. What's say we meet for a session at the Point in Ventura. Pray for surf. Bill Hinkle

Ho Dad or Hoe Dad

I heard the term on the beach in Malibu and it was used to define kooks who came from the San Fernando Valley (an agricultural area at the time) and the term applied to farmers coming to the beach to try and surf - thus hoe dads.
One famous hoe dad was "Flapsdown", a tall lanky guy who wore aviator type dark glasses (shades).
He looked like a misplaced Highway Patrolman or a lost pilot (thus - "Flaps down"). He took the kidding in stride and was naive enough to feel accepted on the beach because he was given a nickname by the regulars.
Tom

Hi Tom,

That's o.k. on including the stories, but the "Ho Mamma" turned into "Ho Dad", and that is where it started, it was Jim King, Bobby Fullbright, and I don't remember who else, but there were several guys being their obnoxious selves, they were just trying to stop her from walking on, saying what a cute little tight butt she had, however she was was just ignoring them, and I thought who could blame her with how they were talking. They were just trying so hard to get her attention, saying "Ho", then "Ho" again, and then "Ho Mamma!" and then they saw who it was she was flirting with, and they cracked up and yelled "Ho daddy!" That is where it came from and so anyone who wasn't the clean cut beach type, (remember those days?) they began calling them Ho Daddy's, then it was shortened. Everyone just picked up on it, and started applying it to everyone else, and that's where it came from 22nd street. It really was Jim King, Bobby Fullbright and the other guys that started it, about the same time as the skate board phenomina.
Ho used to be used for "stop", and that is what they were using it for, to stop her from walking on. We were all laughing at them thinking how crazy they were sounding and we told them so, told them no one would want to stop and talk to someone acting so lewd and jerky. It just became a big joke. Anyway, you hardly hear "Ho Dad," any longer, it has almost left our way of talking. I remember it being used as you say too, but that was later. It's like I remember it just being the Hawaiians using the term "Bro". I don't know where they picked it up from, but now it is more of a black term.

Sandi,
You may be right about some word origins but the word "Ho" for "Stop" would more likely come from "Whoa" a farming term to stop the horse.
Also "Bro" is more than likely a term derived (in surfing lingo) from the Hawaiian pidgeon english "Bra" for "Bradda" or brother.
It's hard to track these terms since 'you had to be there' and then trust that whoever said it, hadn't gotten the words from some other source.
who knew?
TMcB
Kook is from kukai meaning shit

Can't fill you in on much more till I hear some of what has gone on with the people involved, like is Mike Casino still around? If so, where. I tried to see if he is still listed in the phone book. The last time I talked to him he was living in Hermosa Beach, and was going in to something to do with sports. What I'm not sure. Remember him? He is the one who brought Judy Garland back, putting on the big show at the Shrine, then posing backstage with Mickey Cohen the gangster for pictures for the Los Angeles newspapers? Worrying George Abromavic half sick, as he was afraid he would lose his job if any of his bosses saw him in those pictures. Mike also used to put on R&B shows with Chuck Berry, Roy Oberson, and Fats Domino among others at the Hermosa Biltmore, letting all of us beach kids in free. He was just a kid then too. Just a not even in his 20's.

Thanks for getting back to me, and hope someone out there remembers all of this besides me. Too many are gone, Pu, thyroid cancer, Mike Zutell, MS. Rick Stoner, cancer. Jim King, brain cancer, just like Rick Stoner, Phil "Lum" Edwards, cancer. All of these guys died so young, in their twenties, except for maybe Mike, and Pu who was older, but it makes you wonder if it was surfing at the military base, what chemicals were being used down there to control mosquitos, etc., or Hyperion (sewage treatment plant), or board glassing, that may have caused it all, or, or, or??? Gwen Florea also has MS, and she lived on Manhattan and Gould, across the street from Lum. I'm sure there must be more that I don't know of, but it's odd that two best friends like Rick and Jim died of the same cancer in their 20's. (acetone eats you up - tmcb)

Well, we had the best memories, more fun than anyone had a right to have, so that's a good thing.

Take care, it is fun reading about everyone - Sandi - September 2004

G'day Tom,

I'm writing from Sydney, Australia, another great surf city like LA, and with a host of characters similar to the crew in Malibu. We grew up here (I'm 47) under various California surf influences: Noll brought a 'modern' malibu board here in '56 as part of some exhibition team for the Melbourne Olympics and kick started a whole shift to lighter materials and more technology focused board building. The Gidget TV show with Sally Field played here for years, and just this year Kathy Kohner (spelling?), the original Gidget, was here for some pr thing and got good newspaper mileage. George Greenough lived here for a while in the 70s and was into all sorts of stuff that got transmitted around through various channels. (I was surfing in July 2004 at Wategos, 1,000 kilometres north of Sydney, on a warm but rainy winter's day in nice waist-to-shoulder beach peaks, 4 other guys out and Greenough paddled out on an inflatable surf mat and made surfing look really easy!)

Just a post script to that Greenough anecdote. I went back to my mate Cammo's place and mentioned i'd been "surfing" with Greenough, and Cammo says he's been out surfing up there around Ballina and Greenough's paddled out and in between the occassional wave has pulled a fishing line out of his wetsuit and sat out there fishing!

I really enjoy the efforts you and others have made bringing the 50s and 60s california surfing period closer to us via the net, I find it all kind of fascinating. A couple of years ago I transited in LA for some hours and caught a taxi from the airport down to Manhattan Beach pier, I didn't know at the time it was where Noll and others used to hang. It was great having a swim and looking down the beach, beyond Hermosa and Redondo, down to Palos Verdes. Names I had read about for years. Then I jumped on a plane to visit my sister in Wisconsin! Can you get any further from the surf?! Next time I go I'm staying a couple of days and check out the Santa Monica to Pt Dume stretch. It'll be a thrill to step onto the sand at Malibu.

Well keep on doing it, Tom, 'n keep on (body) surfing! I currently ride an 8' board. With a note of historical authenticity, and with a nod to the position of developmental influence, all long boards (and here that means over 7'6") with a full plan shape are simply called 'mals', anywhere you go in Australia. That name will endure.

Cheers mate,

Waz Wallaby

Ok, way out. Hello to Mysto and Cowboy.

I am getting ready for life in Central America away from most other surfers. Away from the Bushes at the 'bu. Paddle heaven for the old guy with two stents and a mumbler.

Being more of one of the gremmies from Malibu and spending most of my early surfing days at Little Dume, you all probably don't remember me chugging up behind the old farts that thought they could go fast. Oh, yea, you didn't see me back there under the lip, I know. However, I remember surfing with Ann Tasker, Linden, Fain, and many of the others. I snaked you all in turn. Sorry. Micky taught me to hang back in the hook at Leo Carrio that year when it was still steep and a lot more hallow on the inside than it is now. The rock was much taller. Micky had sympathy for a beach orphan I guess. That was after Lucky took me to the Overhead for my first really good size waves and I was hooked completely. That day was probably Dec. 28th, 1963.
This is what I want to know. Where is Ann Tasker? What is her story since graduation in 1964 from Samohi? I miss her simpler less complex laughter and really strong turns. She was the one girl out there that really surfed in my opinion. Better than most of us guys.

Remember we still have a lot of bad water at Malibu and most other beaches too. Really filthy. Remember how pretty the rocks used to be when exposed at low tide? Every color of the rainbow.

We have to stand strong and tough to get the sweetness back to our beach. Iraq has no sand for me. Remove the dam.

Ben Hamilton

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